The Duffus Mole Trap is the one used by professionals because it is well made with an effective trigger mechanism. Beware cheap imports with poor mechanisms. If a trap mis-fires, the chances of catching that mole again are slim. Buy the best quality traps and follow our Mole Trapping Guide.
Don't be tempted by 'mole deterrent systems', they do not work, and don't use 'live catch' tubes unless you are able to inspect every four hours or the moles will suffer.
First determine which type of tunnel to set your trap in. If there are lots of mole hills visible dotted all over you've selected the right trap. If the ground is being forced up in long meandering lumps just under the surface of the turf or soil, you need a scissor mole trap.
To set your trap: First locate a fresh mole hill. Dig down between this mole hill and its neighbor, carefully removing the soil above ground with a spade. Dig down using a trowel to where the run levels to a horizontal main run. Push the set mole trap down, so that the mole can pass through the catching loops positioned at each end of the mole trap. Cover the trap with a small amount of fine soil and place a slate or similar item over the vertical hole to prevent light. Don't back-fill the hole.
Check on the trap daily by lifting the slate and looking down the hole. If the mole trap is sprung you should just be able to see the catching loops sticking through the loose soil on top of the mole trap. If after 3 days if you're not successful remove the trap and try on another run using the same procedure as explained above.
The mole trap should be successful every 2nd time it is set. If it isn't, you are either not setting it in the correct fashion or the mole has eaten its fill in you property and gone elsewhere. The more mole traps you set the better the success rate. Ideally a minimum of 2 mole traps should be used.